A diamond tennis bracelet is one of the most beloved and versatile pieces of jewelry that a person may have. Put quite simply, a the bracelet may be worn with anything – dressed up or dressed down – by anyone of just about any age, gender, or size.
But, how can it be that tennis bracelets have been sold for as little as $99 and for as much as thousands? Is there really a difference in quality and craftsmanship? Or, is the pricing all hype?
Jennifer Whyte, a customer service representative for Rock Diamond Corporation who has a soft-spot for diamond tennis bracelets, says, yes, when it comes to tennis bracelets, there are notable differences in quality. Even so, one doesn't have to spend a fortune to get a beautiful, well-made piece. The difference, she claims, that distinguishes a quality piece of jewelry from a promotional or fashion piece, is in the details. And, a consumer can easily learn what to look for and what to avoid when shopping for an affordable, quality diamond tennis bracelet.
Diamonds Should be Well-Matched and Lively
A diamond tennis bracelet features one or more continuous "in-line" rows of evenly spaced and patterned diamonds. Each stone is individually prong-set or bezel-set and linked to other set diamonds to form a flexible chain. The clasp is usually hidden and better bracelets feature either a safety chain or safety latch on the clasp.
Of course, says Whyte, quality begins with the diamonds. Like any other diamond jewelry, the stones should be uniform and well-matched in terms of color, shape and size. They need not be as flawless as one might want on an engagement ring stone, however, the diamonds should be relatively eye-clean. Plus, individual stones should appear lively, bright, crystalline and sparkly. Each diamond should throw-off a rainbow of colors when hit by light. Diamonds should not look dull, lifeless, milky, or show distinct black spots or dark areas.
Jewelry Craftsmanship Counts for Quality
After that, the quality is in the details of the mountings and the clasp, whether the setting is yellow gold, white gold, platinum, silver or another metal. "A tennis bracelet relies on craftsmanship as much as it relies on well cut stones," says Whyte. This is where the best jewelry really stands apart, she adds.
"The art of a beautiful bracelet," she claims, "is all in the setting of the (well cut) stones. It should drape beautifully and flatter your wrist. It should be more diamond than metal, yet not too delicate for daily wear." The stones should be evenly spaced and the metal as unobtrusive as possible.
Consider Wrist Size and Carat Size
"Done right, a tennis bracelet will look casually and effortlessly elegant when worn with jeans and a shirt or sweater, yet wonderfully glamorous and decadent when worn with an evening gown. And, it will look good with every outfit in between," says Whyte. "Pair it up with a watch for a more casual look, or even layer it with some gemstone bracelets for something a little more funky, or just wear it on its own. So versatile."
Whyte recommends that women and men consider the size of their wrists when choosing a the carat size of the stones and overall bracelet style. Bracelets with larger-sized gems look best on women with medium-sized or larger wrists. Delicate styles with diamonds of a lower carat weight flatter small and petite wrists.
"If you can afford it, get a nice little 3-4 ct line and a great big, glamorous 10-20 ct version for seriously dressed up. But if you can't, the 3-4 ct version will never let you down," she adds.
Bracelet Requires a Good Fit
The bracelet should hang freely around the wrist, not too tight, and not so loose as to drop over the hand. An ideal fit allows a finger to pass easily between bracelet and wrist. Too tight, and one risks stressing the bracelet to the point of breakage. Too loose, and the bracelet is at peril for snagging or slipping off unnoticed.
In addition, there should be flexible, free movement between all of the links, including the clasp. You should be able to wrap it round your fingers, says Whyte. If it's stiff or has bulky metal work, you won't get that lovely drape and flow, she adds. All the metal should feel smooth to the touch with no rough or sharp edges.
"Prong settings can be beautiful, particularly for larger stones, but for a 3-4ct version, I really do like nicely done bezels. It gives it a smoothness and a sleekness and makes the most of the size without being too 'loud' overall. Nice crisp, thin bezels please. No lumpy, careless metalwork, because this is one time you won't get away with it," she comments.
Look for a Well-Made Jewelry Clasp
Inspect the clasp carefully. Perfectly done, the catch fastener should be invisible. "It should look like just another link of the bracelet," Whyte says.
Two common safety mechanisms for the clasp are chains and figure-eights. The chain style safety mechanism connects from one side of the main clasp to the other side. If the main clasp fails or breaks, the chain keeps the bracelet intact until it can be repaired. The figure eight latch is a small double loop of metal. One loop closes over a post on one side of the main clasp, while the other loop closes over a post on the other side of the clasp. The figure-eight should hold the bracelet closed even if the main clasp opens.
"If you can, eschew the safety chains in favor of a really well-made safety clasp. A chain dangling from a tennis bracelet is the diamond equivalent of having spinach in your teeth. Get one that's beautifully made, make sure it drapes and flows with the movement of your hand - that's what gives the X factor - that sensation that the stones are floating on your skin," advises Whyte.
Check Prongs or Bezels to Maintain Jewelry
Once you've purchased you perfect tennis bracelet, a periodic checking of prongs for tightness is recommended. And, if stones are bezel set, occasionally check to be sure the gems are not loose. Retipping prongs or reworking bezels is relatively easy and much less pricey than matching and replacing a lost gemstone.
For more about the iconic tennis bracelet, including history and how the jewelry got its name, please refer to companion article Classic Jewelry – Tennis Bracelet.
Claire Eddins - Writer/editor, award-winning photographer Claire Eddins collects gems, horses, and obsesses over home, art, and design.
