Small enough to carry in your pocket or purse, a loupe is an essential tool for identifying and examining gemstones and jewelry pieces. It is a hand-held magnifier that is available in several powers of magnification, including: 6X, 10X, 14X, 20X and 24X. The most commonly used 10X loupe, for example, will show an object at ten times actual size.
For examining gems properly, the magnifier should be a Hastings triplet-type loupe with a black finish. The black casing is preferred because shiny gold- or silver-plated finishes can cause intrusive glare when viewing objects.
Why 10-Power Magnification?
At 10X magnification, objects viewed one inch from the loupe will be in focus. Moreover, there is about ¼ inch of view on either side of the optimal one-inch distance. When examining gems, ten-power is enough magnification to see important identifiers, that is, internal inclusions and surface blemishes that are used to identify and grade gem stones.
By contrast, with too much magnification the focusing area is too shallow and the field of view is so narrow that key identifiers may be missed. And, with any less powerful magnification one may not be able to identify important inclusions and blemishes.
What is a Triplet-Type Loupe?
Triplet loupes are special because they are made specially to eliminate any color that could be present on the outer edges of the loupe lens. Color on the lens may affect how one perceives color of a diamond or gemstone. Also, triplet-type loupes correct for any visual distortion on the outer edge of the lens.
What Does One See With a Loupe?
Basically, a loupe helps one to see aspects of gemstones and jewelry that an unaided eye cannot. Specifically, a loupe is designed to help identify gem internal inclusions such as fractures or feathers, dark crystals, colorless crystals, clouds, grain lines, bubbles and other types of markers. External blemishes include scratches, chips, roughness, cracks, naturals, pits, polishing lines, as well as the stone’s overall symmetry and finish.
When looking at finished jewelry pieces, a loupe may be helpful in assessing fine detail, including quality and condition of craftsmanship, as well as materials used in the piece.
How Does One Hold a Loupe?
Hold the loupe open between thumb and forefinger while holding the piece to be examined in your other hand. Bring the loupe lens near your face, very close to your eye. Your arm or hand should be braced so that the loupe is held steady. To brace, hold your hand against your face or nose, or lay your arm against you chest, or your elbow on a hard, steady surface like a desktop.
How Does One Use the Loupe?
While holding the loupe lens as close to your eye as possible, with tweezers hold a clean gem or jewelry in the other hand. Without moving the loupe, move the object to be examined in the tweezer-hand toward the loupe until the surface or interior that you want to view is in focus. To help steady your hand, brace the lower part of the tweezer-hand, below the thumbs and above the wrist, against the lower part of the loupe-hand that is already braced against your face. Use your wrist to move the object near and away from the loupe.
How Does One Examine a Gemstone?
Holding both hands steady, slowly rotate and gently rock the gem back and forth to see it at all angles. Take your time and be sure to cover all areas of the stone. Also, adjust the distance of the stone to the loupe so that you may focus both on the external surface as well as the interior of the gem. Begin on the outside, then, move the gem to view inward. Repeat as often as necessary to examine all around and inside the stone.
Also, when possible, use different light sources – overhead, reflected and direct – to see the gem or object in as many conditions as possible. Different lighting will highlight different characteristics of a gemstone.
Practice, Practice, Practice
There is no substitute for experience. With a loupe, practice viewing gems, jewelry and all types small objects at home until you are comfortable using your tool. Your skill and practical knowledge can prove invaluable when the time comes to view an important gemstone or piece of jewelry.
Claire Eddins - Writer/editor, award-winning photographer Claire Eddins collects gems, horses, and obsesses over home, art, and design.
